The run-in to the finish line has felt more like a parade at times if I’m being totally honest. It all felt more certain and definite. Any hardships are behind me and it’s time to start celebrating – with my own personal mini media scrum at Agra Cantt Railway Station only magnifying that!
As I crossed from Pakistan into India, things were always going to get a little easier. Having an office and colleagues in the country will do that. Plus I have travelled here many times, so I know a fair bit about the people and the culture. I know what to expect. I mean, it almost felt like cheating.
I was keen, however, not to lose the integrity and the spirit of the trip, so I asked the team here to keep me at arms length (although I was quick enough to call for mommy when I needed to make changes to my rail plans wasn’t I! It helps to know people who know people when it comes to last minute train tickets!)
Despite having visited India a handful of times over the years and having travelled extensively further back than that, no-one has ever ‘done India’. Come here a hundred times and you still wouldn’t be half way there. It’s big in every way. There is no such thing as unexpected in this country, as Indians will regularly tell you – anything is possible in India.
It’s the perfect place to finish my trip.
And, so my little thread of a route from Wagah border to the Taj Mahal was a mere peek at the country. But I’ve loved it all the same, memories of Dharamshala will stay with me forever, of course they will, but so will many others. The spectacle of the Golden Palace in Amritsar at sunset. Watching the langar community kitchens in full flow, feeding Sikh locals and visitors of all faiths alike; ‘The divine unity and equality of all humankind, engaging in selfless service to others’ – what a wonderful platform to build a religion and philosophy around.
In Delhi, I spent a morning with Junaid from the Salaam Baalak Trust, a Non Govt Organisation that is doing inspiring work to help educate, and in many cases return home, the street kids of Delhi. Junaid himself was on the streets from the age of 8 for four years before the trust ‘saved his life’. The stats around street children in Delhi are hard to comprehend, the numbers so big and the situation so overbearing and it’s only thanks to organisations such as this that the tens of thousands of children a year arriving at Delhi station have any hope of getting their lives back on track.
And my final stop before the checkered flag was Bundi, visiting another inspiring project overseen by a close friend and colleague. JP and his small team are slowly, piece by piece, restoring Bundi Palace to its former glory. This heritage project is not only restoring the palace and nearby fort, but is also helping to ensure that the fast-forgotten artisan skills are passed down at least one more generation. It’s a wonderful project and the nearby Bundi Villas was the perfect place to start to process the previous few months.
And so then, all that was left was to get to the Taj itself. The final train was a new Vande Bharat high speed service that runs from Udaipur to Agra. It’s a sleek operation and is a shining light in the current government’s plans to modernise the country’s ‘heritage’ railway system.
Honestly the void between this and any other train I took in Pakistan or India was gargantuan. It’s of course a huge undertaking to modernise a network of this size, but hey it’s a start!
The final five hours onboard was a joy, sitting in spacious seats, moving at speed and with an endless supply of food being delivered to me. We cut through the fields of Rajasthan, with the colourful safaris of the field workers dotting the panorama in all directions, passing dusty towns and crowds gathered at railcrossings. This is the India of my imagination.
So advanced was the Vande Bharat service that it actually pulled into Agra 20 mins early, creating a hilarious scene of only latterly being found by a small press mob who had me get back on another train for the all important disembarking shot!
Ego suitably massaged, there was just one journey left to make, and as the sun set, I arrived at the Taj. I don’t really know what I was expecting to feel, relief, elation or disbelief. In the end, it was probably a combination of all three, but I know it felt good.
14 countries / 38 trains / 13,277km / 234 hours onboard.
What a ride 🚂
Fantastic memories have been made that will stay with you and influence you forever. Brighton will never be quite the same again! So pleased the adventure has been completed without any significant mishaps. Relax and enjoy the journey home.
Its going to take quite a while to process to be sure Mike!
It’s been wonderful following your travels. One day I hope I can visit Iran. I’ve loved reading about your journey.
We went to Bundi just as the pandemic was starting and JP took us around the palace (and many more places). We stayed in the most delightful haveli next to the palace where the staff were beyond helpful because we were having problems connecting with family back home – I adored Bundi and JP.
Thanks so much Heather, it’s been great reading your messages along the way.
Well done Nick! We have not long returned from a Selective Asia trip to India. On our journey we went to the stunningly beautiful Taj Mahal and also Bundi and stayed at the Bundi Villas where we were so well looked after. Eating home cooked food at a candlelit, flower strewn table on the rooftop under the walls of the Bundi Palace was one of our highlights of the trip. So pleased you support the work, the Palace and paintings.
thanks so much and yes the food at Bundi will be one of the things that stays with me longest about the India leg!
Well done Nick and thank you for taking us on the ride with you via these blogs. I enjoyed each one, as well as the style and humour in your writing.
Having tabled with train travel ourselves this year on a very structured trip, your experience will inspire us to try something a little less structured (but Iran and Pakistan won’t be part of it….yet).
Thanks
I’m so pleased you enjoyed them Steve