Travelling through Iran these past few days has been like no other experience, like no other country I have visited. Meeting with Iranian people, passing amongst their awe-inspiring landscapes and feasting my eyes upon their heritage wonders (and my taste buds on their delicious food, of course) has been a privilege.
It’s not been easy either; there is an understandable air of confusion, and at times I sense suspicion, upon seeing me walking down a street or in the bazaar. Two weeks of Thai island hopping this is not.
I undoubtedly arrived in Iran with more preconceptions than with any other country I have visited before (I’ve touched on those here), and it’s hard to read the mood on the streets in a place that is as foreign as this is to me, especially at a time of such high tension. At any time, really, but especially now. However, for every incident or occasion that has fanned my fears, there have been two of genuine warmth or kindness.
Travel has a positive impact in numerous ways, spreading wealth and supporting social economic growth and conservation amongst them. One area that often gets forgotten, or at least doesn’t get trumpeted as much as it deserves, is travel’s ability to promote cultural connectivity and to enhance greater understanding amongst global citizens.
And I have been reminded of that time and time again over the past few days. Not in all my 35 years of travel have I experienced a greater demonstration of cross-cultural warmth, of breaking down barriers and unravelling misplaced opinions. I have been made to feel so welcome at a time that I have really needed it.
Not a day has passed without someone, a total stranger, approaching me, asking where I’m from and then welcoming me, I mean truly welcoming me, and often thanking me for being here at this time.
Just today an elderly man approached me and, through my wonderful guide and interpreter, told me how much he likes the British people (not so much our government) but that we – he and I, the people – were all one. He then hugged me, kissed me on the cheek and walked off into the crowd. I had a former Iranian MP spend 30 minutes speaking with me at a train station (it tends to be where you can find me these days), sharing his vision and beliefs for the future of Iran, and showing genuine interest and pleasure in the intentions of my trip.
I’ve had business owners step out of their shops to greet me, students approach me to say how cool it is that I would show up at a time like this and how grateful they were that I would be open to an alternative narrative. Some share their numbers and insist that I call them if I need anything during my stay.
Each of the conversations I have light up my day, yes, but they also give me hope and a greater belief in the future.
Travelling in Iran is not easy right now, in fact it’s been very hard at times. I am in a group of one in a country of 80 million people. Much of the challenge is magnified in my own mind, and I know that. However, you cannot unwire your thoughts in just a few days; it’s an ongoing process.
Brave, stupid, inspired or pig-headed, I don’t know what it is (probably an equal share of each) but I’m here. I am so pleased and proud to be so, and I’m growing from these travels.
Day: 26 / Distance: 7154km
I am in awe of this – my friend visited Iran about 20 years ago and she loved it. I think what you are doing is amazing
Thanks so much Heather, that’s lovely to hear. I’m so pleased (and a little proud) that I stuck to the original plan. There was an easy exit door for me to take but that I didn’t is undoubtedly paying dividends for me so far. What an incredible country and people.
Another great read Klaus. Sounds amazing.
Thanks mut, I really appreciate it. Great to have you along for the ride 🚂
Told you so!
Oh, you did indeed Mark and I’m so grateful for it x
Good on you Nick – so pleased you’re finding Iran such a positive experience. Some great pictures of daily life and impressive mountains. Keep the blog and pictures coming! A new career as an Ambassador perhaps?
The mountains were fantastic Mike. Just 15 mins north of Tehran and I was trekking to 4000m. Some great trails and a wonderful mountain community as ever.
Very inspiring. I believe more and more in the power of travelling when it’s done in a right way.
No doubt about it Olivier
Wowzers. This really moved me Nick, what an incredible experience. How lovely to share the wonders of humanity and find common good in the current climate of adversity. Safe onward travels.
Becca
Thanks Becca, that’s lovely to hear. These two weeks in Iran have really changed me, I’m really quite teary about moving on tomorrow
such a great read Klaus – well done for being pig headed and sticking to your plan xx
No idea what you’re talking about Hels 🙂 Thanks, so pleased you enjoyed it x
Sounds like a feast for the senses and emotions Nick. Look forward to the next dispatches!
Nice to hear from you Mark. Indeed it is, I’m currently being held at Iran/Pakistan border (Pakistan side), due the issues in Baluchistan. Now on day 3, so plenty of me time!
Fantastic piece Nick and one which has done nothing whatsoever to dampen my desire to visit the place. You know I only head west from here…this could be most inconvenient. Travel well.
We can make it west for you Tom, just sit down and close your eyes and leave the rest to me. Just relax sir, everything is fine, this is west sir…
Beautiful – the old man who came up to you and told you how he liked the British, hugged and kissed you..
Really making me want to be out there in the world even more!!
You got to Iran and travelled , such a wonderful blog ..made me so happy xx
It was so so so special there OD, I’d go back in a heartbeat.